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There are 33 free-standing David Yurman boutiques in America, on chichi streets such as Rodeo Drive, Madison Avenue and Michigan Avenue; it is awash at administration food such as Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Nordstrom and Bloomingdales, and internationally at Printemps and Galeries Lafayette in France and TSUM in Russia.
Over the years, the aggregation has congenital a actual loyal audience that Mr. Yurman calls “Yurmanites.” At a contempo actualization at the Chicago store, for example, about 400 of them showed up to accommodated Mr. Yurman, best absent to affectation with him for selfies.
The brand’s boutiques are welcoming, with an accessibility that has resonated with admirers who ability acquisition some added high-end jewelers intimidating. (Privately owned, the aggregation does not acknowledge sales or acquirement figures.)
The Yurmans, both 74, met in 1968 as flat managers for the sculptor Hans Van de Bovenkamp. They bound became a couple; by backward 1969 they had absitively to alpha a adornment business, adjourned with $500 that Mr. Yurman adopted afterwards absorption from the Hebrew Free Loan Society, a New York-based aid organization.
The antecedent pieces were about wearable versions of Mr. Yurman’s sculptures, crafted in brownish application a address alleged the absolute adjustment action that gave them a aqueous and abundant feel. The couple’s aboriginal notable auction was a beefy choker, purchased appropriate off Ms. Yurman’s close by a arcade buyer who admired it.
Under the name Putnam Art Works, the adornment was awash at galleries and ability shows. “It was tiring,” Mr. Yurman said. “I did 30 to 50 ability fairs a year. It got old afterwards a while because you had to backpack up your being and go up to Stowe, Vermont, or wherever it was, and sometimes it would be aqueous and it would be outside.”
In 1980, the brace reassessed the business and alien the David Yurman brand, to be awash at boutiques and administration stores. In 1983, the allotment that has become the company’s cast was alien — a askance cable shaped into a athletic argent bracelet, at already adored and casual, assured but not chichi and ambrosial to a advanced demographic.
“The cable armlet didn’t absolutely attending like annihilation else,” said Virginia Smith, the appearance bazaar and accessories administrator at Vogue. “It was actual unique, and that has been one of the affidavit they’ve been acknowledged for so continued — this abiding point of view. To accept that array of accuracy is actual powerful.”
The cable burden still abounds in the collection: There are argent bracelets alternate by assurance of lapis lazuli and malachite, and an 18-karat armlet with diamonds. It is acclimated as a bandage for a arena anchored with a ample citrine or amethyst, or a argent amphitheater dangling in a array on a pendant.
For men, it is the base of boxlike blazonry rings and bracelets. It is additionally the focus of the book “David Yurman: Cable,” appear in October by Rizzoli.
The amount ambit of items with the cable burden is wide. There is a blubbery cabled belt with chunk that’s $32,000, a alternative of gold bracelets about $4,000 each, and affluence of options at abundant beneath than $500, like little bandage earrings for $275 and a admirable argent armlet alternate with a few baby chunk for $395.
But the cast has developed to accommodate abundant added than aloof cable-detailed items. There are, for example, gold pendants shaped like multidimensional stars in several sizes and covered in pavé diamonds. Dangling from a tiny chain, they are added aerial than ability be accepted from the brand. There are additionally athletic men’s items with a altered feel than the cable pieces, including rings that attending like asperous pirate’s abundance and elastic bracelets abundant with atramentous artificial carbon.
Wedding items, including assurance rings and charge bands, were alien in 2006; for the aftermost brace of years, there has additionally been high-end jewelry, with items that retail for as abundant as $1 million, such as a advanced white gold belt busy with a flowerlike arrangement of chunk accretion about 20 carats.
“They accept a actual loyal audience who loves the brand’s aesthetic, but at the aforementioned time they consistently action addition that attracts new clients,” said Erica Foland, a carnality admiral and the bounded commodity administrator of artisan adornment at Neiman Marcus.
The aggregation is based in a glassy Manhattan building, on a quiet ancillary artery abreast the access to the Holland Tunnel. The Yurmans accept lived adjacent for about 40 years, back the adjacency was abounding with artists’ lofts instead of family-friendly condominiums.
In one allotment of their headquarters, about 50 adornment makers assignment with machinery, on computers and by hand; addition breadth holds an annal of about 9,000 adornment pieces, forth with different ephemera.
The brace continues to assignment on art, some of which is created in two flat spaces in a architecture in the aforementioned neighborhood. Mr. Yurman sketches every day in a baby Moleskine anthology that he carries in his chest pocket, or, in a pinch, on a cardboard bowl or area of auberge stationery. And his sculptures and Ms. Yurman’s paintings adorn some of the aggregation boutiques.
Still, the Yurmans accept consistently had a faculty of focused industry alongside their aesthetic leanings. In the aboriginal canicule of their adornment business Ms. Yurman created a account of requirements for food that awash the brand. At a time back adornment was merchandised by account blazon or stone, it appropriate retailers to affectation the Yurman items together, with the brand’s name. That adventurous move helped bazaar the company. “It was our constitution,” Ms. Yurman said.
While the aggregation bears alone Mr. Yurman’s name, Ms. Yurman has had a all-inclusive role in its growth. “My mother is a curator,” said the couple’s son, Evan Yurman, who has been the arch artistic administrator back 2013. “She’s an editor, she’s a stylist, she’s instigator. She’s absolutely a merchant.
“She processes advice about the business of the jewelry, and sales, and customers,” he said. “My ancestor is actual abundant high-level business orientated, but is absolutely an artisan at heart.”
There is, with three Yurmans alive together, the apparent feel of a ancestors business. “You cannot brainstorm how capital that is,” David Yurman said. “The absoluteness of this aggregation is that it’s family.”
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