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SPOOLS, WHEELS, AXES, crescents, a cross, a pyramid, a bagel and every geometric anatomy imaginable. These are the shapes of the ancient, medieval and 20th-century affiliated adornment currently bushing three New York galleries.
Most of these angrily shaped anatomy ornaments are of direct gold, but some are of argent or brownish and added than a few are bizarre with engravings or gems. The majority of the bangles and brooches apparent are wearable – alike to the office. Since abounding of today’s avant-garde adornment designs acquire from age-old and affiliated forms, owners of originals say that they are absolutely adequate cutting these aeon baubles because they are actual abundant in fashion.
Each of the exhibitions focuses on a altered aspect of this trend. The oldest examples are apparent in ”Wearable Age-old Jewelry” at the Edward H. Merrin Gallery, 724 Fifth Avenue (at 57th Street). The 48 rings, pendants, necklaces, earrings, brooches, buckles, bracelets and amulets apparent (through Dec. 30) date from the additional millennium B.C. to the fifth aeon A.D.
Most of the selections fabricated by Mr. Merrin, the arcade owner, are Roman, and bisected of the items are rings. ”Compared to the Roman period, there was apparently beneath Greek adornment made,” Mr. Merrin said. ”When age-old Greek adornment was wearable, it was on accompaniment occasions and not too abounding accompaniment occasions, because of its fragility. The Romans fabricated admirable adornment – but it was not as abundant as the Greeks. Roman adornment is not princely.”
What is baronial in the exhibition, he said, is an admirable Greek chaplet from the fourth aeon B.C., a alloyed gold bandage busy with tiny rosettes from which brandish foil-fine leaves. Alike added brittle is a roundel fabricated 1,000 years beforehand and begin abreast the Caspian Sea. This palm-sized assignment in baffled gold over bitumen depicts the Babylonian hero Gilgamesh, his arrogant barbate face affected by four abject horned and spotted beasts. As old but far beneath brittle is a brownish Syrian pendant, a convolute arena about four inches in diameter, additionally of bronze, accessible at one end and catastrophe in a calligraphic swirl. This accessory may accept been beat or afraid alfresco an age-old altar as a votive offering.
Mr. Merrin additionally displays Roman amulets of gold in the shapes of a pyramid, crescents and a dagger; Roman rings with intaglios of Hercules, Mercury and a brood with lyre; a brace of sixth-century Barbarian bittersweet and gilded argent brooches and an Egyptian arena from the Mut Dynasty, possibly seventh aeon B.C., beauteous in its carved images of birds and hieroglyphics. Prices ambit from $2,800 for a brace of Roman earrings of the additional aeon A.D. to $140,000 for the Egyptian ring.
The exhibition ”Wearable Gold” at Tambaran Gallery, 20 East 76th Street (through January), includes 73 examples of mostly 19th- and 20th-century adornment from Indonesia, the Philippines, Afghanistan, India, Turkey, Africa and age-old Rome. What puzzled one contempo company was how Indonesian ear ornaments, fabricated after hooks and pins, were worn.
Maureen Zarember, who owns the gallery, explained that from aboriginal youth, Indonesian men and women on Nias Island wore abundant ear ornaments, which continued their ear lobes to several inches in length. ”Their ear lobes were continued to ability their shoulders,” she said. One such brace of ear ornaments was crafted of two-inch-wide bands of gilded silver, anniversary of which was fabricated of a continued argent ribbon, angled at anniversary end into a agitate the admeasurement of a napkin arena and with a continued bend in between. The bend was anesthetized through the broken affiliate and askance abaft the ear to defended it in place. These ear ornaments were beat with a added conventional-looking chaplet fabricated of the aforementioned gilded argent sheeting, pleated into the appearance of a collar.
”The diminutive assignment is acutely fine,” Mrs. Zarember said, apropos to a abrupt 19th-century Philippine chaplet of gold chaplet of altered sizes. In aciculate adverse is the agleam bland 19th-century Indian gold bracelet, fabricated in the appearance of a caster with 22 spokes, anniversary catastrophe in a tiny ball.
There are beyond ax-head brooches, spool-shaped ear ornaments, a bells chaplet that would canyon for a clothespin and a bracelet, busy with a ram’s head, that is the admeasurement and appearance of a bagel. Every advertise is abounding with added annoying images. In one are pectorals and pendants bizarre with turtles or ducks; in another, earrings in the shapes of padlocks, birdcages and spinning tops.
Jewelry at Tambaran starts at $1,200, which is the amount of one of the simplest and handsomest altar in the appearance – a Roman brownish torque of askance wire, fabricated afore the end of the aboriginal aeon A.D. The best cher account is an Indian chaplet encrusted with diamonds, rubies, emeralds and gold brawl drops. It is $42,500.
Most of the age-old and medieval examples of gold and argent adornment in ”Byzantium: The Light in the Age of Darkness” at Ariadne Galleries, 970 Madison Avenue (at 76th Street), date from the 5th to the 11th centuries. Three ample belt buckles accept a locking apparatus in the appearance of an eight, and are bizarre in altered ways. Two are monogrammed and all are engraved – one with beading, braiding and herringbone patterning, addition with commas and the third with circles, triangles and broken ovals.
The rings accommodate one with leopards crabbed a quartz; a bittersweet affected by gold beads; a arena depicting Mary argumentation with Christ, who holds a book, and a alliance arena centered by a cross, with a helpmate and benedict on either side. A alveolate gold cross, fabricated of two tubes and centered by a garnet, was fabricated to be beat as a pendant. Earrings accommodate a brace of anfractuous gold rings, anniversary belted with tiny gold balls; crescents busy with peacocks, and assurance with rings and beading. The adornment ranges from $7,500 for the brace of anfractuous earrings to $60,000 for the engraved and broken buckle. The exhibition charcoal through Feb. 2.
Photo of a 19th-century gold armlet from India, at the Tambaran Arcade (Manu Sassoonian)
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